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The last oasis before the brutal crossing of the Karakum desert into Persia, the ancient city of Khiva on the Silk Road flourished from humble origins into a city of architectural splendor. Even more remarkable, it is still standing today.
First established in the 10th century, today it lies within Uzbekistan in the valley of the Omo Doryo river and on the border with Turkmenistan. Despite a turbulent past, in which it withstood and succumbed to aggressors in equal measure across its expansive history, the high crenulated walled city has fared well.
I wandered the narrow alleyways and large courtyards of the remaining edifices, barely seeing another soul. A maze of dusty browns, the occasional splash of turquoise tessellated tiling stood out in beautifully stark contrast.
His mausoleum was modest at his death but, given an increasing flow of pilgrims, the original mausoleum was increased to eventually house the impressive turquoise domed mosque and allied buildings that stand today.
After a long day rambling through the silent city, I retreated to my quiet little hotel opposite the western gates and turned in early, for the locale was not exactly awash with distractions. Sleep was soon not an option. I peered out towards city walls to see what I could most certainly hear; a raucous party was getting under way.
They say, if you can’t beat them, join them. Dressed again, I wandered outside to see tables of Uzbek men, smartly dressed in dark colours, feasting on a steaming stew and knocking back vodka with gusto outside a nearby cafe. Skulking in the shadows, I was soon ushered in to join them. Not the convention of hoodlums that I had first feared but a wedding was in full swing. The gents preferred their own company outside and the women and children enjoyed the racket inside.
Come the morning, despite the raucous wedding party, Khiva’s ancient walls were still standing. The city has been buffeted by far worse and long may the imperious turquoise minarets and domes last into the future, a great testament to their adventurous forbearers.
Looks amazing!
Enjoyed your article.
Thanks!!!
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Khiva is a great and very romantic place. Strolls in the Inner city under the moon…
Great coverage of Khiva. I was there in 2017 and reading your review brought back the memories.
I entered your blog at writeho dot com so that more people might see it.